The coalition aims to ensure that sustainability claims for textiles in the European Union are fair and credible
The Brazilian Cotton Producers Association (Abrapa) announced today that, as of December 1, 2024, it will be a full member of the Make the Label Count coalition. Abrapa joins Make the Label Count to contribute its voice and influence in a joint effort to ensure that sustainability claims for textiles in the European Union are fair and credible.
As the EU Green Claims legislation enters the final phase of negotiations (trilogues), it is urgent to highlight the environmental profile of natural fibres compared to synthetic ones.
Together with Anea, the National Association of Cotton Exporters, Abrapa’s membership ensures that the entire Brazilian cotton sector supports this important effort, reaffirming Cotton Brazil’s commitment to strengthening and defending the environmental benefits of natural fibers, such as cotton, at this crucial time.
Abrapa President Alexandre Schenkel (pictured, left) commented on the motivation for joining the coalition. “The Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCR) for apparel and footwear are poorly designed and not fit for purpose. In their current form, they unfairly favor synthetic fibers derived from fossil fuels, while inappropriately classifying natural fiber clothing as unsustainable. This runs counter to the very purpose of the Green Claims Directive, which aims to ensure ‘reliable, credible and verifiable’ claims. By joining the Make the Label Count coalition, we are committed to correcting this serious situation before it is enshrined in European law,” he said.
Elke Hortmeyer (pictured, right), from Make the Label Count, welcomed Abrapa’s membership. “We are delighted to welcome Abrapa and, consequently, Cotton Brazil to the Make the Label Count coalition. As a globally recognized organization committed to sustainable cotton production, their expertise and leadership will strengthen our voice and collective effort to ensure fair and credible sustainability claims for natural fibers. In addition to the socioeconomic importance of raw material production for many cotton farmers, the EU PEF methodology needs to adequately address the environmental impact of petroleum-based materials, such as polyester, which contribute to enormous plastic waste and release microplastics into our waters and soils,” she highlighted.
To ensure that the tools used to validate green claims are reliable, it is essential that they are based on scientific research. While experts have provided extensive research to inform this process – covering areas such as Life Cycle Assessment, consumer behaviour and microplastics – not all of the findings have been properly considered by policymakers or those developing the Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCR) for apparel and footwear.
It is essential that the PEF and PEFCRs for apparel and footwear accurately reflect the true environmental impacts of textiles. To ensure a fair assessment, factors such as microplastic pollution, plastic waste and circularity must urgently be integrated into the analysis.
