Md. Imran
1. Introduction:
The textile industry has been a significant consumer of chemical substances for centuries, using dyes, finishes and other chemical agents to enhance fabric properties and manufacturing processes. However, growing awareness of the environmental and health risks associated with many of these chemicals has spurred changes in regulatory approaches and practices across the global supply chain. Chemicals once considered standard in textile production, such as azo dyes, phthalates, formaldehyde and other heavy metals are now subject to increasing scrutiny and restriction due to their toxicity and potential long-term effects on human health and environment. As a result, regulatory frameworks have evolved to address these risks, leading to the creation of guidelines and restricted substance lists. These lists help set standards for what chemicals can and cannot be used in textile processing, ensuring safer practices for workers, consumers and the environment.
2. Toxicity & Sources of Restricted Substances:
The harmful effects of various dyes, chemicals & synthetic materials used in textile processing have been well-documented. Many of these substances are not only hazardous to human health but also to aquatic life and ecosystems. The following substances are among those most commonly restricted due to their toxicity:
2.1. Azo-amines: Azo dyes are class of synthetic dyes widely used in textile coloration processes, especially in bright colors like red, yellow & blue. When improperly processed, some azo groups can break down into aromatic amines during textile processing. Azo dyes may not be completely stable or thoroughly bonded to the fabric, resulting in leaching of aromatic amines during wear, washing or disposal. These amines are toxic & carcinogenic and can have harmful effects on human health like skin sensitization, carcinogenicity, allergenicity, toxicity & organ damage and also affects environment. The European Union, under REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals), has prohibited the use of certain azo dyes that release these harmful amines, particularly in clothing that comes into direct contact with the skin.
2.2. APEOs (NPEOs + OPEOs): Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) are synthetic chemicals made by combining alkylphenols(aromatic compounds that contain an alkyl group) with ethylene oxide (a reactive compound). These chemicals are primarily used in textile processing for applications such as dyeing, finishing and washing, where they help improve the efficiency of processes by enhancing fabric penetration and dye uptake. These chemicals are well known for their ability to function as detergents, wetting agents, scouring agents, emulsifiers and dispersants. Common APEOs used in textile industry are nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEOs) & octylphenol ethoxylates (OPEOs), particularly NPEOs are not biodegradable under natural conditions. When released into the environment, they degrade into nonylphenol (NP), a highly toxic substance. The primary concerns with APEOs are Endocrine disruption, bioaccumulation & persistence, aquatic toxicity and human health risks.
2.3. Formaldehydes: Formaldehyde is a volatile organic compound (VOC) widely used in textile chemicals due to its ability to enhance fabric properties such as wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability and durability. Formaldehyde is found in textile finishing processes, particularly for anti-wrinkle, stain-resistant, water repellent, flame-retardant and anti-bacterial finishes. Despite its functional benefits in textile processing, formaldehyde poses significant risks to human health like carcinogenicity, respiratory issues, skin irritation, especially in individuals with sensitive skin. Regulatory bodies have placed strict limits on the allowable levels of formaldehyde in garments that are worn close to the skin.
2.4. Phthalates: Phthalates are a group of chemical compounds commonly used as plasticizers in PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and other materials to increase softness and flexibility, durability and pliability. In the textile industry, they are primarily usedas PVC coatings, plastisol prints, synthetic leather and fashion accessories. Phthalates are endocrine disruptors, meaning they can interfere with hormone systems, leading to developmental, reproductive and other health issues, particularly in children. Phthalates are persistent in the environment and can accumulate in soil and water bodies, leading to long-term contamination and can harm aquatic organisms, disrupting ecosystems and reducing biodiversity.
2.5. Heavy Metals: Heavy metals such as lead, cadmium, nickel and others are widely recognized for their toxic effects on human health and the environment. In the textile industry, they are primarily found in dyes, pigments, metal items (such as buttons, zippers & other accessories) and certain finishing chemicals. However, their persistence and bio-accumulative nature have raised significant concerns, leading to their classification as restricted substances under various regulatory frameworks. These heavy metal pose significant health risks, particularly to children, causing neurological, renal and respiratory damage.
2.6. PVC: PVC is a thermoplastic polymer composed of polyvinyl chloride resin known for its durability, flexibility. It is often utilized in the textile industry for applications such as coatings, waterproof fabrics, synthetic leather, and plastisol printing inks. PVC releases dioxins, which are highly toxic and linked to cancer, immune system damage, hormonal imbalances, developmental and reproductive issues. However, concerns over its environmental impact, nonbiodegradability, greenhouse gas emissions during its lifecycle.
2.7. Bisphenols: Bisphenols, such as BPA, BPS are synthetic chemical compounds commonly used in the production of epoxy resins, polycarbonate plastics, flame retardants, PVC, polyamide dye-fixing agents and sulfone & phenol-based leather tanning agents. These substances are highly restricted due to their detrimental effects on human health and the environment. Bisphenols are known endocrine disruptors, mimicking hormones and potentially causing reproductive and developmental disorders. Environmentally, bisphenols are persistent and bio-accumulative, posing a serious threat to aquatic ecosystems. Regulatory frameworks such as REACH in Europe have placed strict controls on their use in textiles to ensure consumer safety and environmental protection.
2.8. Chlorinated Benzenes & Toluenes: Chlorobenzenes and chlorotoluenes can be used as carriers in the dyeing process of polyester fibers. They can also be used as solvents intermediates in industrial processes, including dye production in textiles. These substances are restricted in textile processing due to their toxicity and environmental persistence. Chlorinated benzenes and toluene can cause severe health issues, including damage to the liver, kidneys, and central nervous system, as well as skin and respiratory irritation. Some are also classified as potential carcinogens. Additionally, their persistence and bioaccumulation in the environment pose a significant threat to aquatic life.
3. Risk Management Approaches in Textile Processing:
The presence of restricted substances in textile processing poses significant health and environmental risks. Managing these risks requires proactive strategies by manufacturers and conscious choices by consumers. This section explores effective risk management approaches aligned with reducing toxicity, adhering to regulatory frameworks, and promoting sustainable practices.
3.1. Strategies for Manufacturers
Manufacturers play a pivotal role in minimizing the risks associated with restricted substances. Their efforts directly impact the safety of products, environmental sustainability, and regulatory compliance.
Adoption of Safer Chemical Alternatives
- Substitute Hazardous Chemicals: Manufacturers can replace harmful substances, such as azo dyes and APEOs, with environmentally friendly alternatives. For instance, using azo-free dyes or water-based inks for printing instead of plastisol inks containing PVC.
- Biodegradable Chemicals: Integrating biodegradable chemicals reduces the persistence of pollutants in the environment.
- Green Chemistry Innovations: Developing and adopting green chemistry solutions, such as enzymes for bio-processing, eliminates the need for hazardous chemicals in textile pretreatment and finishing processes.
Implementation of Advanced Wastewater Treatment Technologies
- Effluent Treatment Plants (ETPs): Installing state-of-the-art ETPs to filter out restricted substances, heavy metals, and dyes from wastewater before discharge.
- Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD): Employing ZLD systems ensures that no contaminated water is released into the environment, promoting water recycling and resource conservation.
Regular Testing and Certification of Products
- Comprehensive Testing Protocols: Implement regular testing of raw materials, intermediate products, and finished textiles for restricted substances like heavy metals, phthalates, and formaldehyde.
- Compliance with Standards: Ensure adherence to global standards such as OEKO-TEX Standard 100, GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) and ZDHC guidelines.
- Traceability in Supply Chains: Implement robust tracking systems to ensure raw materials and processing methods meet regulatory and safety standards.
3.2. Consumer Role in Risk Mitigation
Consumers have a critical role in driving the demand for safer and more sustainable textile products. Informed choices and awareness can significantly influence industry practices.
Choosing Certified and Eco-Friendly Textiles
- Look for Certifications: Consumers should prefer textiles certified by standards like OEKO-TEX Standard 100, GOTS and Bluesign®, which ensure minimal restricted substance use.
- Prioritize Sustainable Brands: Supporting brands committed to sustainable and transparent production processes encourages the industry to adopt safer practices.
- Eco-Friendly Alternatives: Opt for natural, organic, or recycled textiles over synthetic materials that may contain harmful substances like PVC or APEOs.
Awareness of Product Labels and Certifications
- Deciphering Labels: Understanding textile labels can help consumers identify products free from harmful substances. Look for phrases like “azo-free,” “low VOC,” or “PVC-free.”
- Avoidance of Hazardous Prints and Coatings: Minimize the use of garments with plastisol prints or water-repellent finishes containing fluorochemicals.
- Promote Circular Fashion: Supporting second-hand or recycled clothing reduces the demand for new textile production, thereby lowering the risk of exposure to harmful chemicals.
4. Conclusion:
Risk management in textile processing is a shared responsibility between manufacturers and consumers. Manufacturers must adopt safer chemical alternatives, invest in advanced wastewater treatment, and ensure rigorous testing and certification. Meanwhile, consumers can drive change by choosing certified, eco-friendly products and understanding product labels. A collaborative approach is essential for mitigating the risks posed by restricted substances, ensuring regulatory compliance and advancing sustainability in the textile industry.
References:
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