June 2026 Jessica Franken, Vice President of Government & External Affairs for the Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association (SMART), will attend the upcoming 15th Meeting of the Open-ended Working Group (OEWG-15) of the Basel Convention in Geneva, where international discussions surrounding the regulation of used textiles and textile waste are expected to continue ahead of future decisions by Parties to the Convention.
The meeting comes at a pivotal moment for the global secondhand clothing sector. Policymakers around the world are increasingly considering proposals that could subject used textiles to Prior Informed Consent (PIC) procedures or classify certain textile shipments as waste. Industry stakeholders have cautioned that such measures could significantly impact global reuse markets and one of the world’s most established circular economy systems.
As part of OEWG-15, SMART will participate in formal proceedings as well as discussions with government representatives, industry leaders and international stakeholders. Representatives from the United States government are expected to attend alongside organisations including the Bureau of International Recycling (BIR), Recycling Europe, the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK), and the Ghana Used Clothing Dealers Association (GUCDA).
A key event during the week will be BIR’s side session, “Used Textiles in Practice: Trade, Impacts and Development Pathways,” taking place on Monday, June 23 at 6:30 p.m. CEST in Geneva.
The event will feature officials from the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD), who will present findings from recently released research examining imported secondhand clothing in Uganda and Tanzania. The study analysed nearly 250,000 garments and found that the overwhelming majority were suitable for reuse and resale, providing important new evidence to inform ongoing international policy discussions.
The session will also explore the role of secondhand textile trade in extending product lifespans, supporting livelihoods, reducing waste, and advancing circular economy objectives across both exporting and importing markets.
With the Basel Convention’s work on used textiles continuing to evolve, OEWG-15 is expected to play an important role in shaping future international discussions on how best to balance environmental protection goals with the economic, social and environmental benefits delivered by global textile reuse systems.
“These discussions have significant implications for millions of people who rely on textile reuse and resale markets around the world,” said Franken. “As policymakers consider future regulatory approaches, it is critical that decisions are informed by evidence and recognise the important role that reuse plays in extending product lifespans, supporting jobs, and advancing circularity.”
