In France, brands are looking to boost their fashion traceability. Transparency has gained momentum, becoming a primary concern for brands which had previously stressed natural or recycled materials and the disuse of toxic leather and fur. Accountability has come into the procurement of apparel which includes textile supply issues. Brands also identified goals for the social and environmental aspects. Brands have struggled with the human dimension outside textiles, casting child labor, forced labour, and the health of the work place.
Brands are primarily interested in the use of chemical products, harmful to human beings and the environment alike. This criterion has a strong lead, with much more sway compared to water consumption, transportation optimization for goods or the question of greenhouse gas emissions. Chemical use is of main interest, since it could protect consumers from the direct effects of carcinogenic products, for example.
Retailers now want to end the bulimic aspect of supply which still prevails on orders. Brands don’t want to take chances anymore and now just want to sell what they are almost assured of. At the start of the season, they are more careful, calculated and less committed. Approximately 35 per cent of brands plan to increase their short-term procurement by 2020, compared to the 65 per cent who want to hold their order share.