Md. Amir Khasru
Introduction:
Wool Fiber is a natural protein fiber derived from the fleeces of sheep, goat and camels. In general, Sheep fleeces are well-known sources of wool fibers and also famous for it’s special properties like heat comfort, lustre, etc [1]. According to the Ministry of Fisheries and Livestock reports, the Population of sheep from 2012 to 2024 ranged from 3.1 million to 3.9 million. An average of 900-1000 grams of raw wool from a sheep can be collected yearly and 0.25 million tons of raw wool is possible to collect nationwide. With deep analysis, the estimated population of sheep will be 4.5 million by 2030 [2]. Bangladeshi sheep farming mainly focus on meeting the demand of meat and in recent years some local entrepreneurs are developing textile from the sheep fleeces. Lacking of proper training and management still not ensure proper utilization of sheep fleeces. A potential opportunity is knocking at our doors. Around 20 billion USD worth Woolen garments are sold worldwide annually and 5.5% growth predicted yearly. By 2027 the market size will be 30 billion USD. Bangladesh can ship More than 1 billion USD Woolen garments by 2030 [3].
Sheep production overview:
In Bangladesh, most of the sheep are of indigenous Ghorale breed, primarily farmed for meat production but sheep meat is not generally preferred. Bangladesh is now producing about more than 3 thousand tons of wool fiber from sheep that are being used in local textile Garments. Australia, China, United States, New Zealand are the top wool producing country [4].
Table 1 Chemical Composition of Wool Fiber
| Component | Percentage | Reference |
| Wool Keratin | 45% | [4] |
| Wool Wax | 18% | |
| Suint | 10% | |
| Water | 12% | |
| Debris | 15% |
Table 2 Properties of wool fiber
| S.L | Properties | Description | Reference |
| 1. | Dimensions | Length: Fine wool: 38–125 mm (1½–5 in)Medium wool: 65–150 mm (2½–6 in)Long wool: 125–375 mm (5–15 in) Diameter: Merino: ~17 µmMedium wool: 24–34 µmLong wool: ~40 µm Cross-section: Roughly oval | [4] |
| 2. | Crimp | Unique 3D waviness due to spiral arrangement of core structures. Enhances elasticity and bulk. | |
| 3. | Lustre | Varies by wool type; affected by fibre surface and structure. Lincolns and Leicesters have particularly lustrous wool. | |
| 4. | Colour | Predominantly white or near-white but Coarser breeds may produce brown or black wool. |
| 5. | Tensile Strength | Dry: 8.8–15.0 cN/tex (1.0–1.7 g/den)Wet: 7–14 cN/tex (0.8–1.6 g/den)Ultimate strength: 1190–2030 kg/cm² | |
| 6. | Elongation | 25–35% when dry, up to 50% when wet. | |
| 7. | Moisture Effect | 16–18% under normal conditions.Up to 33% under suitable circumstances. | |
| 8. | Heat Effect | Weakens at boiling point over time.Decomposes at 130°C, chars at 300°C.Burns with smell of burning feathers; self-extinguishing. | |
| 9. | Age Effect | Stable when stored carefully. | |
| 10. | Sunlight | Causes keratin breakdown, yellowing, and loss of strength. | |
| 11. | Acids | Damaged by hot concentrated H₂SO₄, resistant to most others. | |
| 12. | Alkalis | Sensitive; caustic soda dissolves, mild alkalis used with care. | |
| 13. | Organic Solvents | Good resistance; safe for dry cleaning. | |
| 14. | Insects | Susceptible to moths and other pests. | |
| 15. | Micro-organisms | Poor resistance to mildew and bacteria in damp conditions. |
Bangladeshi Woolen fibers:
Normally, Bangladeshi sheep producing coarse wool whose maximum portion are medulated. Compared to others it is cheap and less in demand. Among these fibers, around 50% natural wool, 30% kemp, and 20% are medullated fibers. Staple length between 40-80 millimeters which is suitable for produce various kinds of carpets, blankets and mats. In September 16, 2016, A MOU signed between Bangladesh Livestock Research Institute & Bangladesh Jute Research Institute to develop commercial textiles form deshi sheep wool fibers [7]. A research of Bangladesh Livestock Research Institute & Bangladesh Jute Research Institute was showing the developments of 30% Jute, 40% cotton, and 30% sheep wool blended yarn using cotton spinning system [8].
Table 3 Properties of wool blend yarn
| Properties | 30% wool, 30% jute & 40% cotton blended yarn | 50% jute & 50% cotton blended yarn | 100% cotton yarn | Reference |
| Count | 12 s | 12 s | 12 s | [8] |
| CSP (Count Strength Product) | 1400 | 1600 | 2000 | |
| TPI (Twist per Inch) | 16 | 18 | 20 | |
| Breaking Elongation | 4.00 | 4.80 | 5.60 | |
| Neps/meter | 9 | 5 | 2 |
The daily star covered a news of Bangladeshi Woolen blanket in December 30, 2020 and Textile today also published article in November 29,2022. Abdul khaleq from Nayagola area of Chapainawabganj town who is still makes hand- woven blankets with pure Bangladeshi sheep wool. His father with 25 others family came to Bangladesh from bihar during partition of the Indian subcontinent but only abdul khaleq is weaving Woolen blanket out of 25 families [5][6].
Figure 3 Wollen Blanket displayed by Abdul Khaleq, adopted from the daily star.
Market Trends of woollen garments:
Invest Bangladesh News, a report on the Woollen sweater export of Bangladesh, Bangladesh’s woolen garments export can reach 1 billion USD by 2030. Bangladesh’s spinning mills have a significant capacity to produce wool, cotton, acrylic, and viscose blend textiles. Wool being a premium fiber, can help Bangladesh to reach higher export value [9]. A news report of the Daily Star in 2018 was showed the growth of sheep farming. Many young entrepreneurs of Bangladesh are focusing on sheep farming. A ewe gives birth to two to five lambs twice a year and a full grown sheep produces 30 kg to 35 kg of meet which grown only in two year [10]. A farmer named Saddam Hossain said, “ Sheep farming is very easy compared to goats, can eat any types of vegetable trees, gives birth twice a year.”
Conclusion:
From the ancient times woolen fibers are used to produce warmful garments like blanket, jackets, etc. From the beginning of Bangladesh, Woolen blanket from Bangladeshi sheep fleece was producing but in recent years they can’t meet the modern garments demands. Due to lacking of technologies and government support they are still in the back. Many studies show the potential market and possibilities of Bangladeshi woolen fiber garments. Some companies are already started their works with it. Sheep farming popularity is increasing day by day in our country. A combined business plan between sheep farmers & textile experts could meet the national & internation woolen garments demands.
